Sunday, June 19, 2011

Rain or Sunshine: Let's Dive

After 5 months of waiting and rescheduling, I finally completed my open water dive certification and it’s such a good feeling. With all the confusion and disorganisation I experienced from Elazmo Sydney Underworld, I’m so happy to not only have completed the course, but truly feel a sense of confidence in going out on a scuba tour anywhere around the world.

We had such a sour perception of the company that we would have to entrust with our lives underwater. In January the company placed a group coupon deal on Spreets for this certification ($170) plus they threw in free snorkel, mask, flippers and booties. With a deal like this, people all over the Greater Sydney area were quick to jump on this deal. Because hundreds of people had the deal, the company became overrun by scheduling flops, lack of giveaways not to mention books and shoddy equipment giving the sense of total disorganisation. As humans it is not natural to breathe underwater. This company was charged with our safety. If they couldn’t get their act together in the office, how were we to believe they could out in the open ocean?

So to put things in chronologically order, I got my Spreets deal in January, took in a classroom course or watched a video from the early 90s projected on a while wall in March, received my course booklet in late April, took my written test in early June along with my first pool session. Two days later, I had my first and second ocean dive and today I finished my third and fourth ocean dive.

It really is true that the more you put something off the less important it seems to be. That’s the feeling I had before I took my written test. After months of unpreparedness, I read the entire 70 pg booklet the night before and answered the practice questions. On the day of the test, we realised we weren't even studying for the PADI course, but an AUSI course. Inconsequential because they are both universal courses recognised like Visa and MasterCard. With much whispering and thumbing through the book, I passed missing only 2 questions!

Off to the pool, the first thing I had to do was swim two laps of a 50 meter pool. This coupled with the fact that I hadn't been in a pool since I was in Seoul in May 2010 seemed like torture. Have I mentioned that June in Australia is winter? This weekend also happened to be one of the coldest and rainiest of 2011. Of all of these factors, swimming the 200m was probably the hardest thing I had to do. After proving that we could actually swim, we put on our wet suits. This was another first for me. Coming from Texas, the water is just fine and you never need a wet suit, unless it was winter time, but you’d be crazy to go into the water in the winter! With the help of Dave and our friend Zach, I squeezed into my wet suit fighting against the rain and cold winds. We then learned how to assemble our equipment by our instructor Jason, a Cali dude who seemingly had the care free vagabond spirit because he’s been an ex-pat for years instructing all over South East Asia. This was not his teaching style. He was actually very blunt with us warning us, “This is your life!” In the end, I’m glad I had him as my teacher for the pool and ocean dive 1 and 2 because everyone else in our last dives that had other instructors just didn't seem as prepared. For the rest of the afternoon, we learned hand signals, how to clear our masks, breathe without the regulator or masks, take our equipment off and on in and out of the water, find our buoyancy, and perform a rescue dive. The hardest part of the day with exception to the first 200m swim, was probably putting on and taking off my fins in the water. Feeling pretty good. We ended the day eating Thai with Jason and discussing US politics and why he was glad he wasn't living in the US anymore – real conversationalist.

Two days later was the Queen’s Birthday – a holiday in the Commonwealth and Australia gets a day off of work. We took to the ocean on yet another rainy and frigid day. The company’s track record at this point was lackluster. On our way to La Perouse, the dive site we were told to go to, we received a phone call from the company saying that our dive was actually at Rose Bay, 45 minutes back the way we had came from. Thankfully, we had Jason’s number and he assured us of the dive at La Perouse because he was there with all the equipment. In all this frenzy, we had gotten off the bus and now had to walk 30 minutes to the dive site.

Two days after the pool session, we assembled our gear with ease. There was another couple joining us today and they just didn't seem to have it together. They didn't know how to properly connect their tank with their jacket and Jason saw their incompetence immediately. Nevertheless, we all got ready and set out for the wavy bay at La Perouse. Jason took them aside and tested their skills while Dave, Zach and I bobbed on the surface. After 15 minutes, I peered down and saw the girl rush to the surface inflating her jacket – the number 1 no no! Jason sent them away back to land to wait in the rain and cold with their wet suits on because all of their belongings were locked in Jason's van! For the next 45 minutes, Jason tested us with all the things we had learned in the pool session and we finally swam amongst the wildlife below. On a day with heavy rains and sweeping winds, coupled with my inability to swim without brushing my fins along the sandy bottom, the visibility was poor to say the least. We did however; spot some colourful starfish, schools of fish and an octopus, which could have been dark vegetation. Back on the surface, I felt like vomiting. From waiting on Jason to test the incompetent couple and the crashing waves, seasickness took over. Diving was the easy part. Containing my queasiness was becoming a problem. After the dive, we treated ourselves to Korean food at Madang on Pitt Street.

A week later, the company confirmed our last session at Watson’s Bay Camp Cove. We were supposed to do a boat dive, but again the company could not get their act together. This time we had perfect weather (17 Celsius high) and did a shore dive. We arrived at 9am finding nearly 20 people to be led by two unfamiliar instructors. With what seemed like over an hour to gear up and instruct, we finally got into the water. When we split into two groups our instructors signaled to go down. We deflated our jackets and started to descend. I was left flailing on the surface because I could not descend. I had deflated everything. I kept trying to descend, taking in Dave’s suggestions to hold my BCD regulator in different ways and even push all the air out of my jacket. Finally, my instructor had to pull me down. I blame it on her because she didn't give me enough weights for my weight belt. It was good practice though because one day I’ll have to adapt to situations like this since every scuba company will have different gear and perspectives on what gear you need.

For the rest of the morning, we practiced a few skills we had learned in the last ocean dive and pool session. On our last descent we took a 20 minute tour around Camp Cove. We didn't see much except for the random fish. Weird enough there were oblivious fisherman not knowing there were no fish today. At this point I practiced my buoyancy and felt much more comfortable with swimming without using my hands and keeping neutral staying not too low nor too high. We made our way back to shore fully competent and confident certified open water divers.

Although I had a rocky start in my journey to getting scuba certified, the experience was worthwhile and became easier to deal with. Apparently, in the last few months, the dive masters revolted against management protesting for a week, leaving the management’s hands tied. The company finally gave in, got their act together and even gave the dive masters new equipment. The company has started to get its act together and it showed. Just like any business, making money is no good unless you've ensured customer satisfaction – and that’s just what we got. We had good instructors, proper equipment and learned everything we needed to know to be confident divers. The last thing to do is get our card back at the dive shop, but they have yet to get our masks, snorkel, booties and flippers in order. Hopefully it won’t be another 5 months till I get these things. In the meantime, I’ll have to start planning a trip to Cairns or Port Douglas to dive in The Great Barrier Reef.


Giving the 'Good to go' Sign at La Perouse 

Monday, June 13, 2011

Get Your Dumping On In Shanghai

On the way to Shanghai from Seoul, I wanted to update my Twitter and Facebook followers of where I was heading next. In an attempt to tweet before boarding, I posted 'Getting my dumping on in Shanghai'. I blame this on the auto correct function because what I meant to say was 'Getting my dumpling on in Shanghai'. Although I had mis-typed, what I had posted was not far off from the truth. Eating all that Korean food with no exception to kimchi at every meal, who knows if our western stomachs were ready for all that Shanghai had to offer.


The reason why we chose to go to Shanghai is because we've both never been. What better reason right? Actually the flight to and from Seoul cost the same as stopping by Shanghai for a few days. I had been to China before via Semester at Sea stopping in Hong Kong and Beijing, but Shanghai was the city I missed. What I knew about Shanghai was that it looked like a city the Jetson's would live in with its amazing architecture, shopping and food and that's exactly what I got. With our visas in order (US folk need to pay over $200 to get a tourist visa. Thank you Mao Zedong), we set forth for the 'Paris of the East' or 'The Great Athens of China'.


Sleeping on Christie's floor in Seoul, we decided to treat ourselves to a 4 star experience at Salvo Hotel. Entering the Executive Suit, we felt like real grownups. I'm 25 and don't consider myself 'grown up' yet. We had king size bed with a view overlooking The Bund. We had a jet tub and a living room with a computer - with Windows 95, dial-up and no Facebook access! It may be nothing to toot about for some, but for us, this hotel room represented all the hard work and effort to get to this point in our lives.


For the next 4 days we walked all around Shanghai crossing off the list of Top Things To Do in Shanghai via Google search. We took in the great architecture, ate dumplings and street food morning, noon and night and walked so much that we passed out hitting the bed at night. No need to stay up and watch TV because the only western channel we had was CNN.



We Conquered Shanghai by Foot
See Red Circles For Points of Interest



View from The Bund

One of the best places to capture the city skyline is The Bund. Strange name for a boardwalk lining the Huangpu River. It's a historical area with 52 buildings of various styles including Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Neo-Classical, Beaux-Arts and Art Deco. Not a big on architecture, but I appreciated it's contribution to the setting of The Bund.


Around The Bund and River Cruises


The View from The Bund at Dusk and Night


Jinmao Tower and Shanghai Financial Center


The area The Bund overlooks is the Pudong area called Lujiazui containg 3 of Shanghai's most notable buildings: Oriental Pearl Tower, Jinmao Tower and the Shanghai Financial Center. The pearl TV tower building is pretty self explanatory regarding the name. The Jinmao Tower contains offices and the Grand Hyatt Hotel, which has the tallest hotel and lobby in the world. The Shanghai Financial Center, the second tallest building in the world, has offices, shopping, hotel rooms and the world's tallest observation deck.


We could have gone to any of the buildings' observation desks, but we opted for the Jinmao Tower, our least favourite. We wanted to be able to see the other buildings. Plus the Jinmao Tower has the tallest bar in the world - Cloud 9 Bar on the 87th floor.



The 88th Floor View Down to the Grand Hyatt Lobby
Tallest Lobby in the World


The View from the Observation Deck at Jinmao Tower


The Line To Go Back Down


After our trip up the Jinmao Tower, we indulged ourselves with dirty martinis at Cloud 9, where there was a 150 yuan (about $21 AUD) minimum to sit. Welcome to China!


Me and The Oriental Pearl Tower


Shanghai Grand Theater and Man Flying an Octopus Kite


Street Art on Nanjing Road


The Shanghai World Pavilion


Walking on Century Avenue


View from Our Hotel Room

The rest of our trip included shopping and food. Our first night, we went the safe route and chose a restaurant off of the famous Nanjing Road. Despite seeing the very cheap and delicious street stir fry, we chose this place because it had a large picture menu with English subtitles. We went with the trusty, "What do you recommend?" What we got was some very spicy/oily tofu and cold yellow chicken. That night, we walked off our meal taking in the nightlife of Nanjing Road. We knew the Chinese like to party, but we found a group of locals young and old getting through groove on to a boom box on Nanjing Road.


Our First Meal
Cold Chicken and Spicy Oily Tofu


Impromptu Dancing in the Street

The next day, we took to the streets towards the YuYuan Garden and Bazaar. We got lost weaving through back alleys and found ourselves in a local market. The same time we were here, Chinese watermelons hit Australian news. Australia was banning imports from China because of their 'exploding watermelons' full of hormones/steroids. Seeing a cucumber the size of a man made the news very real to me.


Hormones in the Vegetables?
Largest Cucumber I've Ever Seen


Frogs for Dinner


Best Street Food
Pancake with Egg, Scallions & Chili Paste


Streets of Shanghai & Women's Daily Exercise

We made it to the famous YuYuan Garden Bazaar. It was unbelievably touristy. I had the idea that this place would be a serene spot with old school Shanghai architecture and local products. The Bazaar was full of shops selling 'jade' - not to mention Starbucks, McDonalds franchises. I did find a very practical item I wish I could have in 50 years - a cane that doubles as a chair. Senior citizens of the world, you are missing out!


YuYuan Garden Bazaar


Famous Stinky Tofu
One Bite Was Enough


First Taste of Shanghai Dumplings
$12 is Not the Local Price


Famous Dumpling Stand and Fried Goods Dotting the Entire Bazaar


Drink a Dumpling
Food/Drink Combo

The actual YuYuan Gardens were actually breathtaking. Tucked away from the touristy Bazaar, we had to pay $10 each to find some appreciation for Chinese architecture. The gardens took us over 2 hours to leisurely walk through. The walkways were my favourite. You'd often find murals of stone on the pathway and dragons made of stone along the walls.


YuYuan Garden Pond


Excellent Stone Work on the Pathway


Cane/chair Combo


The Chinese Love Red
Decorations Store in the Bazaar

For the rest of the week, we took to our trust top things to do guide and our hotel provided map. We circled every place we wanted to go to and walked to each for the next 2 days. Already in the north, we went as far east, south and west as we could by foot. We took the train to go across the river to see the famous JinMao Tower and Expo Pavillion. The only other train we took was to and from the airport. 


Senior Citizen Tour Group
I Bet They Would Like the Cane Chair


Long Day of Walking
Taking a Break to Review Our Map


Choose Your Own Style Soup
Pork Dumplings with Vermicelli & the Better Spicy Hodgepodge
Which Do You Think I Got?


Nanjing Road West & Nanjing Road East


People's Park Gardens


Serious Game of Go
Men Only Please


Street Food
2 Types of Stir Fry and Local Beer = $5

The food was excellent. I had delicious street food and more dumplings than I can ever want to eat again. On my last day, I decided to go soup again. With so many restaurants offering soup, we decided to go back to Nanjing Road where everyone seemed to be getting their soup. We sat down and got a huge bowl of spicy soup with chunks of meat, few vegetables, egg and peanuts. All I could see was oil. So hungry from our day of walking, we demolished the soup despite all the oil. 10 minutes later we were finished and my stomach hated me. I ended up throwing up in a Starbucks 30 minutes later and walking around in a haze. For the rest of the day, I went for only bread from bakeries. 


The Soup That Gave Me Food Poisoning

Dave's First Yoshinoya Experience
Famous Japanese Beef Bowl Franchise


Chinese Style Egg Burrito
Breakfast Street Food Style


Huge Aquarium on Nanjing Road

One of my favourite cultural exchanges was when I tried to order our last meal of dumplings in a mall food court. Food court food is usually considered sub-par, but this particular stand had a line out of the food court. Standing in line for 5 minutes, I realised I was the only one without a ticket. I looked at a old woman behind and me pointed to her ticket. She pointed to the food court cashier. I walked up to the food court cashier, which had no line, but a barge of people surrounding the counter. I made it up to the front. I always travel with my Casio calculator and punched the number 5. I had previously looked at their menu, which luckily featured the English words "Fried dumplings $5". I pointed to the number and pointed to the dumpling stand. She automatically knew which item I wanted and gave me a ticket. Chinese language exchange success.


The Last Dumplings

We had a few hours to kill before our 10pm flight. We decided to see Kung Fu Panda 2, so appropriate I know. Afterwards, Dave had one more stint of shopping. With the unbeatable prices for name brand items at our fingertips, we had to take advantage before going to back to the jacked-up pricing model of import conscious Australia. Both Dave and I got winter jackets, which were personally fitted on like we were in-store mannequins by the attendant. I then ventured to find some knock-offs. Previously living in New York City, a visit to China Town meant designer brands for cheap. Coming to Shanghai, I thought designer knock-offs would be aplenty. This was not the case. This city was not the China I expected. There were only legitimate stores. There were no street hawkers except for the few on the steps leading to the subway, which sold children's trinkets, lighters or house shoes. I was frustrated. I wanted to bring back some designer handbags and it seemed impossible to find any sort of street hawker - with exception to the seedy people on Nanjing Road who shove laminated pages of bags and watches. I didn't want to hear "You want bag. You want watch. You want Louis Vuitton" anymore. Heading back to our hotel, we took the underground route and encountered an entire world of street hawker style market. It was like I was in the subways of Seoul again. Watches, sunglasses, dresses, flats and bags all less than $20. I walked away with 5 Longchamp bags for $6 each. Knock-off mission complete.


Train Ride Back to the Pudong Airport


If you're going to China, you have to visit Beijing, Hong Kong and Shanghai - in that order. Shanghai gave us 4 days of tourism, culture and escape we needed from our western life in Sydney. When travelling, I usually have accessible internet with accessible websites. If not, I have a guide book or fellow backpackers to rely on. This time around, we encountered very few people who spoke English and hardly any internet access. We instead went straight to our concierge for a map and circled where we wanted to go. For a 4 day trip, we packed sight-seeing, shopping, exercise and plenty of food. If you have a few days to stop by Shanghai, I highly suggest to do the following:

  1. Pre-book your hotel room. A 4-5 star is excellent value. It costs what we consider 3 star, but you can get an enormous room, amenities and view
  2. Read up on what to do before you get to Shanghai because internet access is limited
  3. Walk the Bund Boardwalk to get excellent panoramic shots of the city and river
  4. Go up one of the major towers. Go with the JinMao Tower, so you can see the Pearl TV Tower and then go to Cloud 9 Bar
  5. See the Shanghai Acrobatics Show at the Shanghai Centre Theatre
  6. Eat street food stir fry and food court dumplings
  7. Go shopping. You can even barter in department stores!
  8. Go from one end of Nanjing to the other and stop by People's Square, People's Park and Renmin Square. Good people watching and great modern architecture
  9. Walk through the YuYuan Gardens and amuse yourself with the ridiculousness of the Bazaar
  10. Walk around instead of cabbing it, you'll see more


How long have I been here?