Montreal: The Other Paris

En Route to Montreal on the Via Train

After a glorious sleep in one of the best beds we'd ever slept in, we woke up early to catch the two hour train from Ottawa to Montreal. The Via Train system is so efficient. We ordered our tickets back in Sydney and picked up them up at the station. We had cancelled the train from Montreal to Kingston since our friends Mike and Julie would be joining us in Montreal and the tickets were refunded on the spot. There was free Wi-Fi in the terminal and on the train as well as sockets on board

We arrived 10 minutes late, but it didn't matter because Mike and Julie arrived at the hotel at about the same time. They had driven all the way from Toronto that morning, so they needed the extra minutes to relax while Dave and I were exiting Central Station and walking 20 minutes on that snow and windy day to our hotel, Hotel St Denis in Oldtown Montreal.

I was so excited to be in Montreal. I heard it's like the Paris of North America and I love both Paris and North America. It was an old city full of history, but had modern flair with pockets of fun neighborhoods. Plus everyone spoke French! It was like we were in another country.

After giving huge hugs to Mike and Julie, who we hadn't seen since summer 2009 in Korea, we set out to tick off the first thing on the agenda; seek out Schwartz's delicatessen – a Montreal institution for Montreal smoked meat sandwiches. Dave's first test of speaking French was when we climbed into the cab on our way to Schwartz’s. The cab driver was a black man who spoke perfect French (an unusual sighting in America). He commented on Julie's beauty and even Mike who only had novice French skills had to translate for Dave! As Dave responded, his French language skills started to kick in.

45 Minute Wait at Schwartz's

We finally made it to Schwartz’s, which had a line-up of about 50 people. It took nearly 45 minutes to get seated (at the counter), but were happy. We ordered four sandwiches, two pickles, two coleslaw, two fries and drinks. Dave and I loved it so much and knew we wouldn't be back for a long time, so we ordered another sandwich! We rolled out stuffed with more Montreal smoked meat than we could handle, but the wait was worth it.

The Famous Smoked Meat Sandwich

So Excited to Try This Monster!

Mike & Julie Couldn't Wait

It's a Packed House at Schwartz's

We walked to downtown walking through the Des Jardin Center, the Contemporary Art building and the Notre-Dame de Montréal Basilica. Mike and Julie were not accustomed to walking so much, whereas Dave and I loved it!

In Front of Notre-Dame de Montréal Basilica

The Alter

Gothic Revival Ceilings

Evening began to settle in so we went back to the hotel by 5 pm and took a nap which Mike needed from driving and we all needed from the food coma we were experiencing from Schwartz’s.

Mike and Julie knocked on our door at 7:30. Dave and I didn't realised we slept for so long, but we were ready to enjoy Montreal night life. We drank a Vin Blanc that only tasted good after three glasses served ice cold and some Rickard's white beer (like Colorado's Blue Moon) until 9 pm.

The Man Cave in the Basement of Hotel St. Denis

Found a Phone Booth Trudging Through the Snow

We then ventured to Oldtown Montreal for a good place to have dinner. We were still full from the sandwiches, but wanted something small. We stopped at Santos Tapas Bar (fitting name as it is Mike's surname), where they served Spanish tapas and wine. The walls were red and the furniture was red and black - a very trendy lounge feel. We shared a bottle of tempranillo, calamari, ratatouille and nachos. We finished the meal with red sangria. The place was starting to turn into a dance club, which was our cue to leave.

Canada's Unofficial National Dish

Dave was craving 'late night' and in Canada that means only one thing; poutine. We must have felt like partying because we then ordered another bottle of red wine and stayed out until 2:30 am!

A Franchise Dedicated to Eggs Benedict

California Style Eggs Benedict

The next morning, we woke up late. With such snowy conditions, there really isn't much to do in Montreal except eat and drive somewhere to escape the snow. Dave's dad had heard of our love of Eggs Benedict and recommended us to go to a franchise called Eggspectations. We had a hangover breakfast full of hollandaise and starch – perfect medication.

Seeking Shelter at the Biodome 

Gotta do the Arm Motion When Talking about Olympic Stadium

Afterwards, we drove 5 miles to the Biodome. It took nearly half an hour because of the weather and slow driving conditions. The Biodome is located where the Montreal Summer 1976 Olympics were hosted. The Biodome was where cycling was held, but after the Olympics, it was converted into a sort of green house. The Biodome features Canada’s four major regions; forest, rain forest, plains and artic. Although the exhibits cater to children, it was interesting to learn about the different landscapes and animals that live in Canada. The most lively animals were the Otters who looked like ferrets in the water.

Penguins Enjoying the Tide

Bat Ears in the Rain Forest

Being Born Out of a Dinosaur Egg

Friends With a Large Beaks

After the Biodome, we knew we would not be able to bear the cold, so we went to another Montreal must-eat La Banquisse. It's the most well-known place to get a poutine. They have around 20 different types. Mike, Julie and I decided to be adventurous by trying poutine's with guacamole and sour cream and others with green peppers, pepperoni and mushrooms.

Dave's Traditional Poutine

Dave opted for the traditional cheese curd and brown gravy. He devoured his quickly. We three couldn't get past half of our small orders, so Dave took the rest of ours and put them together and finished them all! I just wonder where he puts it all. He did proclaim that that was the last of the poutine he would have in Canada.

La Dan Dan

Pepperoni, Bacon & Onions 

Excited to Try a New Style Poutine

Dave Put Together All of Our Leftovers

Man vs Food Moment

Around 5 pm, we arrived back at the hotel for our daily ritual; nap time. We slept again until 7:30. Rather than go to Old Montreal, this time we would walk just a two blocks away to Quartier Latin. We saw many neon lights and decorations driving down St Denis, so we decided this would be the place to spend our last night. We were still so full from dinner, so instead we went for dessert at Juliette et Chocolat, famous in the Latin Quarter as well for their chocolate desserts and crepes. 

Taking a Whiff of Chocolate in a Goblet

When we looked at the drink menu, there was nothing but chocolate. We thought perhaps, we would be served a block of chocolate. Instead, we were served warm and frothy chocolate in a goblet. There were so many to choose from, but Dave and I went for an award winning chocolate from Madagascar. It was divine. We paired our drink with a crepe with salted caramel, grilled banana and vanilla ice cream. We really felt like Parisians.

Drinking Chocolate From Madagascar

One of the Best Crepes I've Ever Had

Beer Tasting at Les 3 Brasseurs

Afterwards, we braved the snow again, but stopped only a block away at Les 3 Brasseurs, a local microbrewery we had our eye own since seeing it's other franchise location in Old Montreal. We were still so full from all the food, so we had tasting paddles of their beers. None were memorable, but it was nice to get out of the cold, sit in a warm pub and talk about the wonderful foodie town that is Montreal.

The next day, we left early to go to Kingston. Dave was sad we did not go to Mount Royal – the highest vantage point in Montreal (Dave has a thing for seeing the top's of cities). The weather was snowy and windy again and we weren't sure if the roads up the mountain were safe or even open. Nevertheless, we were ready to leave. We were done with Montreal and couldn't bear the cold and constant eating in Montreal. It was a wonderful trip full of culture and delicious food. Next time we visit, we'll have to go in the summer so we can see Montreal without mounds of snow and actually walk around instead of eating so much we need a nap between meals.

The Best Canada Roadside Meal

For lunch, we stopped at Tim Horton’s, a Canadian institution known for its on-the-road coffee and doughnuts. I needed something light and not fried. Mike, a born and bred Canadian has had almost every iteration of the Tim Horton’s menu and suggested one of the best meals I've had on this trip; chicken noodle soup + a double toasted everything bagel with garlic and herb cream cheese and lettuce and tomato.

We arrived in Kingston by 2:30 pm. Dave’s mom was so glad to see us even though we saw her only two days ago. In true Canadian form, she asked about the weather first, then asked about food and finally about any sightseeing we did.

View of Kingston from Fort Henry

That evening, we took Mike and Julie on a car ride tour of Kingston. We stopped at Fort Henry (again the highest point in Kingston for Dave’s pleasure) to see the beautiful city of Kingston in the evening and watch the children sled down the hill.

Panoramic of Kids Sledding

We were planning on meeting Dave's brother and his wife for dinner at 6 and we had an hour to kill. I convinced everyone to go to Urban Outfitters – my favourite store in college. I bought two dresses and a shirt for $35! Urban Outfitters is not cheap, so when they have a sale, it's a great deal.

Very Cute Urban Outfitters Shopping Bag 

For dinner, we went to Sir John A. Macdonald Pub House – a pub named after Canada’s first prime minister who resided in Kingston with a menu of Scottish foods. For $20, you could get a three course meal. We were all intrigued by the haggis fritters, but I hate liver and other innards. The food was standard pub fare with lots of potatoes (I'm so sick of potatoes!). Dave and I were craving Asian food and yet again, Saigon Delight was closed. It was so nice to spend time with Dave's brother and wife without the parents. They are only two years older than us, so it was like we were talking with friends. We talked about family of course, but also had some good laughs at how Canadian’s always say “Oh Ya!” in confirmation or affirmation.

For our last night in Kingston, we watched the USA vs Canada game in the World Junior Championships (NHL was in lockout, so this was the only hockey going on) and we taught Mike and Julie the card game Wizard (much like euchre).

The next morning, I took a run on the treadmill and packed. We shared a delicious breakfast of bacon, eggs and toast. We packed up Mike's little car with our huge suitcases and Dave's mom watched from the doorway. We went back to the front door to give our hugs and the waterworks began to flow. It was so good to spend time with family in the one holiday that you should. We were so glad to give Dave's mom that gift and her tears showed her gratitude and love. It was hard to say goodbye, but we made a decision to not wait another three years, but come visit every other year.